Romania: Micro Minis, Bribes and Boars.

We arrived in Veliko Turnavo, Bulgaria full of expectation after surviving 2 nights in dreadful Sofia. VT was the type of town we have come to love. Less than 100,000 people, interesting gimmick (a 14th century fortress overlooking a river bend of two gorges) and great food and wine. We met some Aussies setting out for a couple of years in London and we gave them our tips on surviving Western Europe.

We then set off for Bucharest Romania on the slowest train ever. The pace was diminished somewhat at the Romanian border as each border official from Bulgaria and Romania entered the train to receive their bribe from the gypsy women carrying their 10 plastic bags full of contraband. The officials took one look at our Aussie passports and valid visas and scurried off to the next compartment to receive their share of the booty. As we watched official after official pocket his tens of thousands of Romanian Lei, we became increasingly interested as to what was in the bags. Later an American missionary summised it was either cigarettes or Bulgarian rose essence products. Either way, everybody seemed to make a little bit of money and we crossed the Danube and were on our way.

Lonely Planet advised that one of the great dangers of Romania is its hayfever inducing wildflowers. 15 minutes across the border and I was reaching for the Zyrtec. LP was right again. We were therefore pleased that a number of things have changed since our 2003 edition was published. Firstly the stray dogs have mostly now been executed by the city Mayor in a kind of zero tolerance Rudolph Guilanni style crackdown. We also found that we kinda liked the Romanian capital (sometimes referred to as the Paris of the East). We spent the afternoon walking around taking photos (where permitted by over zealous officials), ate dinner and left quickly so our good impressions were not ruined.

Bucharest has the second biggest building in the world, created by Ceausescu in his last years in power. It is amazing in its grandiose dimensions and if you didn't consider the peasants who lost their homes so this thing could be built, it is quite lovely. The rest of the neighbourhood also has a French feel and we kept being amazed at the development and prosperity of this city compared to Sofia. Cathy even enjoyed the shops at the train station and her Sofia induced depression lifted, hopefully not to be seen again. I can't blame her however, Sofia sucks.

Romania is full of nature, the forests are thick and full of wild creatures. Fortunately the taverna restaurant we found last night also allows you to eat said creatures in a medieval hunting setting. Bear, civit cat, deer and wild boar graced the menu, so we tucked into some culture appreciation along with ogling the waitresses, each in a short micro mini skirt and cleavage highlighted by a well placed pen.

We have made it to the land of Vlad the Impaler from Transylvania, five months after meeting Vlad the Russian carpet cleaning man from Cheap as Chips (no relation). Our host, a 120cm grandmother who speaks not a word of English other than "no problems" has put us up in her dining room. We are loving Romania but we are still looking out for "perfect 10" Nadia.

Off to Budapest tomorrow night for (hopefully) a lovelier city and a longer stay.