Saturday, February 26, 2005

Tunis - Parl A Vous Anglais?

Greetings from Tunis from a non QWERTY keyboard. Why would they put the A in the top left hand corner??? Oh to be one of those hunt and peck typists that you see around the office.

My failure to remember year 8 French is being painfully played out here as I smile and watch Cathy masterfully deal in pidgen French. Its working somewhat and we are making the most of our time here.

Highlights

Bardo Musuem, Cathy declared this her trip highlight albeit on the first day. Soaring mosiacs 3 stories high from the Roman era in an elaborate Islamic palace. We took about 300 photos as it was so extraordinary.

[an arabic version of Total Eclipse Of The Heart is playing in the cafe - very strange but somehow appropriate.]

Sidi Bou Said. Whitewashed white walls and blue windows everywhere. Another 300 photos. Lovely mint tea overlooking the Med.

Lowlights

Trying to purchase tix for the ferry home and being told you must show your ATM receipt which of course we had thrown out. Apparently you must be able to prove where you got the money before you can buy a ticket out of the country. Cathy then withdraws another 500 dinars [500 Aussie] and hears the awful sound of the ATM receipt being scrunched up and eaten by the machine. After an hour trying to solve that problem we decide to withdraw more money. Success

Problem is the money here is in 10, 20 and 30 dinar notes. We now are carrying 900 dinars with 20 30 dinar notes and 30 10 dinar notes. We now need a new bag to hold all the money [or a wheelbarrow] And noone wants the 30 as it is too big. Crazy

Cant understand why a country with perfectly good resources eats tinned tuna every meal - its like Samoa but somehow less understandable.

Local red wine is pretty good Trav. Hunt some down in Dans...

See you in Sousse or Jerba next week.


PS for the touchtypers try typing fast using this setup

AZERTYUIOP
QSDFGHJKLM
WXCVBN,;:!

Tuesday, February 22, 2005

The last 9 days

Its been 9 days since my last post. Greece and Italy have a bunch of old things and not a lot of internet cafes. Sorry for the delay.

We're trying to get to an internet cafe with a USB connection so we can post some photos. We need to plug in the card reader into the computer and either upload the photos onto the site or email them to Dave. Its all very hard.

Since my last report we've covered off Greece (or at least the Athens and Peleponnese) parts of Greece and moved onto Italy. Greece, as Cathy said was good, although the final day wandering around Patras waiting for the Ferry to Bari, Italy was a bit much. Patras is Greece's third biggest city. To accurately picture it you should be thinking Shepparton with a port, perhaps that's rough on Shepparton but you get the picture. By about 3pm we're sitting in a cafe trying to kill 7 hours and the waitress is glaring at us as we don't want another beverage. Anyway it gave us a chance to reflect on Greece generally - our thoughts to date:

1. Shares in Greek companies that specialise in foundation and makeup must be at a record high. Buy.

2. Greeks aren't that proud of anything they've done since the birth of Christ. Not one tourist attraction in Greece incorporates anything constructed or done in the last 200 years.

3. Forget the expression, beware Greeks bearing gifts. Beware blokes carrying Roses. They don't like the word "no", or perhaps they don't understand me.

4. When travelling from Greece to Italy I highly recommend Superfast Ferries. Amazing scenes, they have their own nightclub (Think Silence Delerium and Madonna Remixes), they have 3 restaurants, heaps of bars and best of all, they deliver you to Italy first thing in the morning. We're big fans.

First stop in Italy was Naples. We stayed four days and learned the following:

1. Italians do not seem to work between the hours of 12 and 4 or on Sundays. You can get a haircut at 8pm on Saturday night but you can't buy water on Sunday afternoon, very strange.

2. Coffee is 25ml and is to be drunk standing up in two gulps. You don't under any circumstances order a "latte", "mocachino" or "flat white". If this is the home of coffee, its a very quick experience.

3. Protect yourselves and your belongings near the Napoli Station, enough said.

4. Pompeii is an amazing site. We both thought lava had flown down the mountain and covered everything which made the incredible dead people. Truth is a layer of ash suffocated the people (those that didn't leave when they had the time to do so) and the corpses were created by pouring plaster into the ash mould. Very interesting. We took a tour with some American students who were studying Italian somewhere up north. I'd forgotten the number of times a Californian can use the expression "and I was like" in the course of an hour. Like Totally. The tour was fantastic, we went through the brothels where you order your female of choice and then you point out the position you want on the wall. Extraordinary. As was the 70 year old guide explaining the positions to us 20 somethings. I believe he mentioned every position except "reverse cowgirl".

5. Sorrento is a lovely town for a couple of hours of drinking and eating. The Amalfi coast is what you read about in guide books - we best return in summer when you can take off one layer of thermals. Capri is also fantastic however 5 euros for a 200ml coke was a bit out of control Think 8.33 dollars for a coke and you know you are partying with the rich and famous.

6. We hit Palermo Sicily today and found that the ferry to Tunis leaves tonight. So we are going. Don't bother using our hotmail addresses as the government blocks that site. It is however the "nicest" of the Arab governments so we are looking forward to the next 10 days.

Keep up the comments and the emails. This information junkie is missing news from home and reading the front page of the British Sun just doesn't cut it "CHARLES TO MARRY IN A TOWN HALL" really doesn't cut it.

See you in Tunis.

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Off to Greece

A few things we've noticed about Istanbul now that the weather has got warmer:

1. It really is a beautiful city - when you aren't staring at your feet trying not to fall on the black ice its not bad at all. Apparently Istanbul has had its worst weather in 20 years and we walked right into the middle of it. But today it was sunny and a gorgeous 4 degrees. The men spruiking their carpets, leather goods, spices and kebabs were out in force.

2. Every Turkish man selling his wares starts with the words "excuse me". He then needs a snappy pick up line - the worst being "your beautiful baby". That's really not going to get people into your store. Cathy fell for the man flogging Turkish Delight who went with "lovely to see you again".

We went to Gallipoli yesterday (Gelibolu in Turkish). As the wind chill factor went below -5, we imagined the Anzacs standing there in their shorts and shirts 8 metres from the Turkish line. It was really incomprehensible as to what they were in fact doing there in the first place. The Turkish guides however were lovely, you would expect them to be angry that we invaded their country however they weren't. We went with Hassle Free Tours who operated a good tour which we would recommend.

We however do not recommend Anzac House, where the heating came on at 10pm and was off by 12pm. I slept in 3 layers including thermals watching my breath each time I exhaled. Shithouse.

The Turkish men have that annoying habit of staring at single women. Lucky Cathy has emerged unscathed (with the husband by her side). Some single Australians were given tapes and coffees and other gifts by smiling, non-English speaking men who huddled around her in packs. Its very ugly and reasonably desperate behaviour.

We've been staying in the Side Pension. 28 Euro per night for our own room and bathroom. Its been fantastic although I'm over the Turkish breakfast however: bread, butter, jam, cheese, tomato, cucumber and olives. Its the same every day. Why however does every meal have to include tomato? Lunch has tomato, dinner has tomato. Over it.

Anyway we couldn't be bothered with the 12 hour bus ride to Thessaloniki and then the train to Athens. 70 minutes in the plane flying Olympic is fine with us.

More stories from Athens.

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

Apparently its getting warmer

We woke to brilliant blue sky and were relieved. We ate breakfast and it started to snow again and it has continued to snow for the rest of the day. Not to worry as Istanbul is certainly amazing in the snow (albeit slippery and likely to cause broken limbs at any moment). We are however surviving well. I'm running 5 layers and Cathy 6. We're certainly not in Melbourne any more.

Funny people these Turks, everyone has a leather shop or a carpet shop. Everyone has a good customer in Brunswick or Noble Park. Everyone is awfully offended when you advise that you can't purchase a 2m x 1.5m long carpet and tie it to your backpack. Nevertheless we press on.

Istanbul memories:

1. The snow. Not since New York City in 1998 with Trav have I seen anything like it.

2. The Blue Mosque, quite extraordinary and still blue despite being covered in snow.

3. The dudes who somehow pick up on the fact that you are from Melbourne and therefore it is offensive to them if you don't buy a leather jacket, whether or not that leather jacket is blue!

Off to Gallipoli and Troy tomorrow. More reports after that.

PS
Go all ordinaries, Go.

Monday, February 07, 2005

Istanbul Day 1

So most of you know that we chose to start the honeymoon in Istanbul as it has an average Feb temp of 7 degrees. What I have now learned is that sometimes it snows here in Feb. Today its minus 3 and snowing. We've taken some amazing snaps but haven't worked out how to post them on this site yet.

If someone could work out how to do it and then email me it would be great!

Leaving Frankfurt was easy - we certainly made the most of our time there but its not a fantastic city for tourists - especially compared to Heidelberg where you can imagine that you are in fact German and eating sausage and drinking beer is a national pastime.

Cathy didn't mention the Frankfurt zoo in her post the other day. Best zoo I've been to in a while. Aardvarks, penguins and piranhas just aren't located in "ordinary" zoos. Nice one.

We ran into some Australians in London who had just been to the Ukraine and they were talking it up in a big way. We'll see if we can get over there later in the trip. Must pack our orange scarf if we get there!

We are staying in an amazing pension in Istanbul. See its website.

Things we've done to save money so far:

1) Fare evaded in Frankfurt - After learning of the "honesty system" for Frankfurt public transport, we implemented our own "tourist, not sure what we are doing system" whereby we bought some tix but not others. No-one asked to see our ticket in 5 days. Nice one.

2. The "Old Women at the Salad Bar technique" - whereby at breakfast time, enough food for lunch is placed into the Crumpler bag and then prepared into a lovely sandwich on the road. Reminded me of my Sizzler days that one.


Friday, February 04, 2005

Frankfurt - Cold, Picturesque and Spots of Drama

Well we arrived safe and sound in Frankfurt. About 24 hours of Qantas is enough, we saw all the movies and ate all the food (which actually wasn't too bad).

We walked around town yesterday trying to get a feel for the city. Its very difficult when all you want to do is sleep - so we did, 7 hours in the afternoon, out for dinner, then another 10 or so. Dinner was in a traditional German pub. We ate 'handcheese with music'ยด- a local delicacy combining a soft cheese, vinegar and onion. Everything here is pickled! We had apple wine and a bucket of beer. Binding is not bad at all.

Today was much better. We got up all refreshed and we were walking to the train station. A fight broke out between a cyclist and a car driver. There was much arguing in German and it looked like it was about to get physical. Cathy and I were 20 metres away when one of the combatants pulled a gun!!! He went to fire it into the air and 2 big guys jumped on him and they wrestled on the ground for a while. We high-tailed it out of there quite shaken at seeing our first German fight. The police came from all directions and order was restored. We asked the Tourist Information guy whether this was normal. Apparently not, as he was shocked by our tale.

Its about 5 degrees, a bit fresh but apparently better than Melbourne! Which we saw on the news.

Off to Heidelberg on Saturday and then Istanbul on Sunday.

Keep in touch.

Chris and Cathy